As propagated in outside world I could not find “Talibani-burqa clad” woman. Jeans with tops covered with “Abaya” (Chador) seems to be dominant dress of Iranian women in the country and of course unveiled faces, writes M Hasan
Tehran/Mashhad (Iran): Despite economic difficulties and massive inflation Iranians seem to have resolutely thwarted the five-decade of western economic sanctions, as it has almost become part of their life. In fact a generation has passed under the sanctions.
The ongoing massive infrastructural development in various parts of the country, which I witnessed during my 13-day visit (Feb 7 to 19, 2025) as a part of “Karwane Noor” led by Maulana Nehal Haider of Lucknow to Tehran, Mashhad, Qom, Nishapur, Kashan and other areas, indicated that the country, despite economic constraints, was on the move.
No doubt, the situation was absolutely contrary to what jaundiced western media has made to believe to the outside world. Travelling around these areas it did not appear that the country was fraught with the West imposed economic difficulties. While its railway stations, metros and airports, high-rise buildings could easily be matched with any developed country, the highways, expressways and web of flyovers especially in Tehran were eye-openers and unbelievable. Iran’s highways are dotted with pictures of “martyrs” who have laid down their lives for country’s freedom. No other photos or advertisements could seen along the highways/expressways.
As propagated in outside world I could not find “Talibani-burqa clad” woman. Jeans with top covered with “Abaya” (Chador) seems to be dominant dress of Iranian women in the country and of course unveiled faces.
According to recent reports, the literacy rate in Iran is around 97%. This means that the majority of the population aged 15 and above can read and write. The female literacy rate is around 85.5 percent with 15 percent of them constituting labour force in the country. Women were active in hospitality sector of the country. The Iranian labor code states that women should be able to access jobs without discrimination. Apart from other subjects the primary curriculum includes Persian, English and Hindi but now from this session the government has introduced French language for children.
“Fadak” superfast fully-airconditioned train in which we journeyed from Mashhad to Qom (nearly 1000 km) was no doubt lifetime experience with the train staff and catering service excellent. Each four-passenger cabin was well-furnished with bottle of drinking water, cold drink, delicious cake, a packet of tooth brush, tooth paste, paper napkins and a bag of soft quilt. Similarly, Tehran’s metro services are one of the best in the world. All this has been achieved while the nation has been facing worst economic sanctions.
Even though a section of people in India has reservation about Iran, Iranians love Indians as compared to people of other south Asian nations. As I entered into security enclosure of beautifully constructed vast Imam Khomeini mausoleum in Tehran, the security men asked me “India or Pakistan”. When replied “from India, one of the security men smilingly and shaking my hands said “Salman Khan, Shah Rukh Khan, Amitabh Bachchan”, and let me go inside. Amusingly, new generation of Iranians recognize India with these three Bollywood icons. Indian films seem to have bonding role with Iran. But old generation has its own reminiscences. “ We want restoration of old relationship between the two nations”, commented a senior faculty member of a Hoawza (Madarsa) in Mashhad. Thousands of Indian students are studying in these Hawzas. In order to attract tourists from India the Iranian government has made visa-free entry for 15 days and the government officers from Immigration to other level are very cooperative.
The Iranian currency (Riyal) is all-time low with 500 Indian note fetching 4.75 lakh Iranian notes (Rs one is equal to Rs 490 Iranian rupee), but the life is normal as they have become used to this situation over the decades. But they are absolutely unbending in their national pride. In view of massive inflationary trend purchasing starts with no less than 10-K Irani currency. A cup of black coffee costs 50-K. But it doesnot matter to them. Indian currency is welcomed with smile. You need not to go for exchange as every shopkeeper is ready to accept it. However, on every corner of the market people involved in currency exchange are available and pay you current rate.
Though the national government appeared to be on firm footing there are opposing groups, known as “Zidd-e-Inquilab (those opposing 1979 revolution of Iran) in some parts of the country. But their support base was reportedly very limited and they are largely getting sustenance from outside forces.
(M Hasan is former Chief of Bureau Hindustan Times Lucknow)
